The First 15 Minutes: How I Decide Where to Detect (Before the Machine Is Even On)

There is always a moment when you arrive on a new permission—or even an old one—that matters more than most people realise. It comes before the headphones go on. Before the detector is switched on. Before the first step into the field. You stand at the gate, or by the track, and you look. In that moment, whether you know it or not, you are already deciding how successful the day is likely to be.

After more than fifty years of detecting, I have learned that the ground will usually tell you where to start—if you take the time to read it. The trouble is, most detectorists don’t.


The Urge to Just Get Going

It is very tempting to begin straight away. You’ve arrived. Time is limited. The excitement is there. So you switch on, walk out, and hope the machine will lead you to the finds. Sometimes that works. But more often, it leads to an hour—or a whole day—spent covering the wrong ground. I have done exactly the same myself over the years. We all have. The difference now is that I rarely take a step until I have spent a few minutes studying what is in front of me.


What I Am Looking For

In those first fifteen minutes, I am not thinking about finds—I am thinking about movement. Where did people cross this land? Where did they gather? Where were they likely to pause, work, or pass through? Because that is where the finds will be.

I start by looking for the obvious things:

  • A footpath cutting across the field
  • A gateway or access point
  • A change in direction of a boundary
  • A trackway, even if it is now only faintly visible

These are not just features. They are clues to human activity. And where there was activity, there will be loss.


The Less Obvious Clues

Often, the best areas are not marked clearly at all. Instead, they show themselves in quieter ways. A slight change in soil colour. A gentle rise or dip in the ground. An old hedge line that no longer quite makes sense. These things are easy to miss if you are walking with your head down and your detector already sweeping. But if you pause and look properly, they begin to stand out. Over time, you learn to recognise them almost instinctively.


Choosing a Starting Point

Once I have taken all this in, I make a decision. Not a random one—but a deliberate one. I pick a line to walk. That line is usually tied to something I have seen:

  • Along a boundary
  • Across a suspected route
  • Through an area where activity feels likely

What I am not doing is gridding the middle of a featureless field simply because it is there. Featureless ground can produce finds—but it is rarely the best place to begin. Start where the odds are strongest. You can always expand later.


What I Ignore

Just as important as what you look for is what you learn to ignore. A large, open expanse of ground with no visible features is often exactly what it appears to be—ground that saw little concentrated activity. That does not mean there is nothing there.
It means it is unlikely to be your best starting point. The same goes for following the “easy” route—walking straight out from where you parked, simply because it is convenient. Convenience rarely leads to the best finds.


Let the Ground Speak First

One of the biggest shifts in my detecting over the years has been this: I no longer expect the detector to find the site for me. That work is done before the machine is even switched on. The detector then becomes what it should be—a tool to confirm what the ground has already suggested. When you work this way, something interesting happens. You begin to find more—not because you are covering more ground, but because you are covering the right ground.


Closing Thought

So next time you arrive on a field, resist the urge to start immediately. Stop. Look. Take fifteen minutes and let the land tell you its story. Because more often than not, the success of your day will be decided before the first signal is ever heard.

Categories: TIPS | Tags: ,

The First Hour on a New Site: What I Actually Do

Most detectorists think success comes down to finding the right field. In my experience, it often comes down to something else entirely—the decisions made in the first hour.


The Hour That Matters Most

Most finds aren’t lost because they aren’t there.
They’re lost in the first hour—when we make the wrong decisions.

I’ve learned this the hard way over many years. Time and again, I’ve walked onto ground that should have produced, only to leave thinking it was barren. Then, on a return visit—approached differently—it suddenly comes alive.

That first hour sets the tone. Get it right, and you begin to understand the site. Get it wrong, and you can walk away from good ground without ever realising it.

Where you’re allowed to detect varies across the world—permissions, public land, beaches—but the fundamentals of reading a new site are exactly the same.

This is what I actually do.


Before I Even Switch On

I don’t rush to switch the detector on.

Instead, I stand still for a moment and take the ground in. It’s surprising how much information is available before a single signal is heard.

I’m looking for simple things:

  • Changes in soil colour
  • Finds on the surface—pottery, flint, brick
  • Slight rises or terraces
  • Old trackways, gateways, worn routes

Even now, after all these years, I still see things in those first few minutes that shape the entire session.

If there’s nothing at all—no sign of past activity—I’m already cautious. Not defeated, but cautious.


Where I Start (And Why It’s Not Random)

I never start in the middle of a field.

Instead, I look for what I call activity zones:

  • Field edges and boundaries
  • Old entrances and gateways
  • Areas near buildings (even vanished ones)
  • Slightly higher ground

People rarely used land evenly. Activity clusters, and that’s what I’m trying to tap into early on.

If I can find a “live” patch in the first half hour, I know I’m on something worth pursuing.


The First Signals: What They Tell You

The first few signals are more important than many realise.

I’m not just interested in what they are—but in what they suggest.

  • A scatter of iron can indicate occupation
  • Lead often points to sustained activity
  • Mixed signals suggest a worked area
  • Complete silence is information too

I will dig more in the first hour than later on—not less. I’m sampling the ground, building a picture.

This is where many go wrong. They cherry-pick too early and miss what the site is trying to tell them.


Settings, Pace, and Control

I keep things simple at the start.

  • Moderate sensitivity
  • Minimal discrimination
  • Slow, controlled sweep

This is not the time to push a machine to its limits. It’s about stability and clarity.

Just as important is pace. I slow myself down deliberately. The temptation is always to cover ground quickly—but in that first hour, understanding is more important than coverage.


The Decision Point: Stay or Move

By the end of the first hour, I expect to know one thing:

 Is this ground worth my time today?

Not every good site produces every time. Conditions, crop, moisture—all play their part. But there should be something:

  • A hint of activity
  • A pattern forming
  • A reason to persist

If there’s nothing—truly nothing—I’m prepared to move.

That’s not failure. It’s efficiency.


A Final Thought

Experience in metal detecting isn’t just about knowing where to go.

It’s about knowing how to start.

The first hour is where a site begins to reveal itself—or where we miss it entirely.

Get into the habit of treating that hour as reconnaissance, not routine, and you’ll find that more of your sites begin to “open up” in ways they never did before.


If you’d like more practical strategies like this, drawn from over 50 years in the field, you’ll find many of them explored in more detail in my books and guides on site research and successful detecting.

Categories: TIPS | Tags: ,

Ten Leagues from Land’s End: Re-examining the Mystery of the Merchant Royal

On 23 September 1641 an English treasure ship vanished somewhere beyond the Cornish horizon.

The Merchant Royal was said to be carrying bullion and jewels worth a king’s ransom. Contemporary reports valued the cargo at around £400,000 — an enormous fortune in the seventeenth century and one of the richest losses ever recorded in British waters.

Nearly four centuries later the wreck has never been identified.

All that survives as a geographical clue is a brief phrase repeated in early reports: the ship sank “about ten leagues from Land’s End.” That single line has become one of the most tantalising riddles in British maritime history.


A Ship of Trade and Opportunity

The Merchant Royal was built in 1627 as a large English merchant vessel of roughly 700 tons burthen. Ships of this size were capable of long Atlantic voyages and often carried substantial armament for protection. Contemporary descriptions suggest that the ship mounted around thirty cannon, quite typical for a merchantman trading in contested waters.

The early seventeenth century was a period when commerce and privateering frequently overlapped. Cargoes might include ordinary trade goods, captured prize cargo, or bullion transported on behalf of merchants or governments. By 1641 the Merchant Royal was evidently carrying a remarkably valuable cargo, although the precise composition of that treasure remains uncertain.

Later summaries often describe the cargo as £300,000 in silver, £100,000 in gold, and jewels of comparable value. These figures are best understood as estimates of total value rather than a detailed manifest.


The Final Voyage

Accounts of the ship’s last voyage vary. Some suggest trade with Spain, while others place the vessel returning from the Azores, a key waypoint on Atlantic return routes.

Whatever its earlier course, by late September 1641 the ship was approaching the southwestern approaches to the English Channel. Ships returning from the Atlantic converged toward Land’s End before turning east into the Channel.

It was here, in the Western Approaches, that the Merchant Royal encountered severe weather. Reports indicate that the vessel was leaking badly and struggling in heavy seas — a dangerous situation for any wooden ship after a long ocean passage.

On 23 September 1641, the ship was lost.


The Only Clue

The position recorded in early reports is simple but frustrating:

ten leagues from Land’s End.

This phrase is often misunderstood. A sea league in the seventeenth century was closer to three nautical miles, suggesting a distance of roughly thirty nautical miles offshore — not the twenty-one miles sometimes quoted.

More importantly, navigation at the time relied on estimation. Without accurate longitude, positions could easily be wrong by many miles.

The famous phrase therefore provides not a fixed point, but a broad zone somewhere off the Cornish coast.


Witnesses at Sea

Some accounts suggest the sinking was observed by another vessel sailing in company with the Merchant Royal. In maritime terms, this meant ships travelling within sight of one another along the same route.

If correct, this detail is significant. It places the disaster not in some remote stretch of ocean, but along a recognised shipping corridor — the approach to the English Channel.

This would explain both the reported position and the presence of another ship nearby.


Why the Wreck Has Never Been Found

Despite its legendary cargo, the Merchant Royal has never been conclusively identified. The reasons are largely practical.

The seabed southwest of Cornwall is:

  • deep and difficult to survey
  • littered with wrecks from many centuries
  • subject to strong tides and sediment movement.

After nearly four hundred years, the wooden structure of the ship would have decayed, leaving only scattered debris.

The ship’s bronze cannon further complicate detection, as they produce weaker magnetic signatures than iron.

Even when wrecks are located, identifying a specific vessel among so many remains a formidable challenge.


A Detective’s Calculation

The famous “ten leagues” clue is often imagined as defining a vast search area. But a little reasoning can narrow it considerably.

If ten leagues is taken as roughly 30 nautical miles, a full circular search area would cover about 2,800 square nautical miles.

However, ships approaching England from the Atlantic typically came from the south-west, not from all directions. Restricting the search to a 60-degree approach sector reduces the area to around 470 square nautical miles.

Allow for drift — perhaps eight nautical miles before the final sinking — and the likely wreck zone becomes a narrower band between about 22 and 30 nautical miles offshore.

This reduces the theoretical search area to roughly 220 square nautical miles — a reduction of more than ninety percent.


Dowsing – Another Way

An entirely different approach to the problem has occasionally been suggested through the practice of dowsing.

One method involves working with a gridded chart, beginning for example from the Azores, and attempting to “map track” the route of the Merchant Royal. Using a pendulum, the dowser tests each grid square in turn, asking whether the ship passed through that section during its final voyage. Areas returning a negative response can then be revisited with a different question — whether the vessel might instead have foundered there.

By progressively subdividing the grid into smaller sections and repeating the process, it is claimed that the possible location can be narrowed down to a very precise point.

While such methods fall outside conventional historical and archaeological practice, they do reflect the enduring fascination of the Merchant Royal story and the desire to resolve a mystery that has persisted for nearly four centuries.


A Mystery That Endures

Despite centuries of speculation and modern search efforts, the Merchant Royal remains one of the most elusive shipwrecks around the British Isles.

Somewhere in the deep waters southwest of Cornwall may lie the remains of a ship that once carried one of the richest cargoes ever lost at sea.

Yet the answer may ultimately lie not in chance discovery, but in careful historical reconstruction — piecing together navigation, weather, and fragmentary reports from the past.

Nearly four centuries after the disaster, the clue recorded in 1641 still echoes across time:

ten leagues from Land’s End.

Somewhere beyond that distant horizon, the Merchant Royal may still lie waiting to be found.


Author’s Note

The Merchant Royal itself almost certainly lies far beyond the reach of a metal detector, but the process of narrowing its location mirrors the same principles used in historical research and fieldwork — understanding routes, reconstructing past activity, and testing hypotheses against the landscape.

Categories: Shipwreck | Tags: , , , , , , , ,

Metal Detecting Tip: Learn to Dowse

Dowsing—sometimes called divining or water-witching—is an old practice traditionally used to locate water, minerals, or other hidden features beneath the ground. The technique usually involves a simple tool such as a forked stick, a pendulum, or a pair of metal rods which respond to subtle movements as the dowser walks across the land.

While most people associate dowsing with water, the same principle can also be applied to metal detecting. Used sensibly, it can help guide a search and highlight areas worth investigating with a detector.

The idea itself is nothing new. For centuries farmers used dowsers to locate wells, miners employed them in the search for ore, and the practice has occasionally appeared in archaeological surveys. Like many traditional skills, it has survived because some people find it works for them.

My own use of dowsing developed gradually over many years of detecting.

Rather than using two rods, as is often demonstrated, I usually work with a single rod in one hand and my detector in the other. This approach leaves one hand free to control the detector and allows both tools to work together naturally. Instead of stopping to dowse and then detect, I can do both at the same time while walking the ground.

The rod does not normally “respond” in a dramatic way. Instead, it seems to subtly guide the direction of the detector as I move across the field. When that guidance brings the coil over a target, the detector does what it always does—it gives the signal.

After a while the process becomes a comfortable rhythm: walking slowly, sweeping the coil, and allowing the rod to guide the direction of the search.

Using this method on open ground has led to a large proportion of my finds.

I remember one occasion particularly well while searching a field that was known to contain a scattered hoard of gold staters. As I walked across the field the rod quite sharply turned me around. Immediately the detector gave a signal. A few inches down was another gold stater.

Experiences like that are why I continue to use the technique.

Of course, the detector always provides the proof. Dowsing does not replace the machine; it simply helps guide the search. The coil still has to pass over the target before anything is recovered.

For those curious enough to experiment, the tools required are extremely simple. Many beginners start with L-shaped rods, which can be made easily from wire coat hangers or bought from specialist suppliers. Others prefer a pendulum—a small weight suspended on a string or chain. Like detecting itself, success comes through practice and familiarity.

Some detectorists take to it quickly, others not at all. As with many aspects of the hobby, the only way to know is to try it for yourself.

What matters most is to treat dowsing as a companion to metal detecting rather than a substitute for it. Used alongside your detector, it can help narrow down large areas and focus attention on ground that might otherwise be overlooked.

For me, dowsing and detecting are not separate activities — they are simply two parts of the same search.

Categories: TIPS | Tags: , ,

Top Tip #50: Have Fun

Because if it stops being enjoyable, you’re doing it wrong.

After all the talk of technology, coils, grid systems, permissions, research, soil conditions and strategy, it’s worth stepping back and remembering something simple:

Metal detecting is supposed to be enjoyable.

When I first started, armed with a primitive detector and more optimism than knowledge, I didn’t worry about optimisation, recovery speed, or multi-frequency processing. I went out because the idea of lost history beneath my boots was irresistible. Every beep held possibility. Every outing felt like an adventure.

Somewhere along the way, especially once you begin finding better things, it’s easy to become goal-driven. You start measuring trips by value, by rarity, by what might be left in the ground. You analyse performance, compare machines, and calculate whether the next upgrade will produce “just one more” coin.

There’s nothing wrong with striving to improve. But if you lose the enjoyment, you lose the point.


Why Having Fun Still Matters

1. It Keeps You Going
Not every outing produces treasure. In fact, most don’t. If you only detect for the big find, you’ll give up long before it happens.

2. It Protects Perspective
A Roman coin, a Victorian sixpence, a simple buckle — each once belonged to someone. If you slow down and appreciate that, even modest finds become meaningful.

3. It Makes the Outdoors the Reward
Sunset over a ploughed field. The hush before rain. The rhythm of waves on a winter beach. Sometimes the setting is as memorable as the find.

4. It Builds Camaraderie
Some of my most enjoyable days detecting haven’t been the most profitable ones. They’ve been shared hunts, conversations over flasks of tea, and the collective excitement when someone else makes a good find.

5. It Sustains the Long Game
This is not a hobby measured in weeks or months. It’s measured in seasons — sometimes in decades. Enjoyment is what carries you through the lean spells.


Practical Ways to Keep It Enjoyable

1. Set Sensible Expectations
Not every field is a gold field. Not every signal is silver. Treat each outing as exploration rather than extraction.

2. Celebrate Small Wins
A well-struck Georgian copper, a neatly hallmarked spoon fragment, even identifying a puzzling bit of lead — each is part of the story.

3. Vary Your Detecting
Beach one week, pasture the next. A rally here, a quiet solo permission there. Variety keeps enthusiasm alive.

4. Combine Interests
History research, photography, mapping findspots — metal detecting blends well with other pursuits.

5. Record the Journey
Keeping notes or writing about your experiences often reminds you how much you’ve learned — and how far you’ve come.

6. Know When to Walk Away
If frustration sets in, stop. There will be another day, another field, another signal.


The Real Treasure

Over fifty years, I’ve dug up gold, silver, scrap, and more foil than I care to remember. But when I look back, the most vivid memories aren’t always the most valuable finds.

They’re the long, unhurried hours on a field with nowhere else to be.
The quiet rhythm of sweep and step.
The changing light as afternoon drifts towards evening.
The unexpected conversations.
The slow realisation that a patch of ground holds history.
The pause — that small intake of breath — just before lifting something from the soil.

The thrill of the hunt never entirely fades — but it only remains thrilling if you allow yourself to enjoy the process.


Conclusion

Have fun.

Chase improvement, stay curious, refine your technique — but never forget why you started. Metal detecting is part adventure, part history lesson, part puzzle, and part pure optimism.

And sometimes, the best days are the ones when you come home with muddy boots, a handful of modest finds… and the quiet satisfaction of having spent a few hours doing something you genuinely enjoy.

Categories: TIPS | Tags: ,

Top Tip #49: Stay Updated on Technology

But don’t mistake new for necessary.

Metal detecting technology has advanced enormously since the early days of BFO machines and constant re-tuning. Multi-frequency detectors, improved discrimination, faster recovery speeds, lighter builds, wireless audio, waterproof housings — today’s machines are undeniably more capable than those of fifty years ago.

But here’s the important part: staying updated on technology doesn’t mean constantly upgrading.

It means understanding what is changing, why it matters, and whether it genuinely applies to the type of detecting you do.


Why Staying Updated on Technology Matters

  1. Improved Performance — When It’s Relevant
    Advances in multi-frequency processing, ground handling, and target separation can genuinely improve results, particularly on mineralised soil or iron-infested sites.
  2. Greater Efficiency
    Faster recovery speeds and better ergonomics allow you to cover more ground comfortably — especially useful on ploughed land or large pasture permissions.
  3. Better Ground Adaptability
    Waterproof machines, improved salt handling, and more stable ground balance systems have transformed beach detecting compared to earlier generations.
  4. Longevity of Your Investment
    Understanding firmware updates, accessory options, and coil compatibility helps you get more life from the machine you already own.
  5. Avoiding Costly Mistakes
    Knowing what a new feature actually does prevents unnecessary upgrades driven by marketing rather than need.

Practical Ways to Stay Updated (Without Chasing Every Release)

1. Read Reviews Critically
Look beyond promotional language. Ask: does this feature solve a real problem on my type of ground?

2. Use Magazines and Trusted Publications
Established detecting magazines remain one of the better sources of balanced equipment reviews and real-world field reports.

3. Listen to Experienced Detectorists
Club members who have actually used new machines on similar soil conditions often provide more useful insight than online hype.

4. Attend Dealer Demo Days
If possible, try new machines yourself. A short hands-on session in familiar ground tells you far more than hours of online research.

5. Follow Manufacturers — Selectively
Keep an eye on official announcements for firmware updates and genuine innovations, but remember that not every new model represents a revolution.

6. Watch Field Tests, Not Studio Reviews
Videos filmed on real farmland, wet sand, or iron-heavy sites reveal more than carefully controlled demonstrations.

7. Understand Coil Developments
Sometimes the most meaningful “upgrade” isn’t a new detector, but a different search head suited to your ground conditions.

8. Compare Before Replacing
Ask yourself what your current detector cannot do. If you cannot clearly answer that question, you probably don’t need to upgrade.

9. Balance Cost Against Opportunity
Money spent on travel to new permissions, research materials, or club memberships can sometimes yield more finds than a marginal equipment upgrade.

10. Master What You Already Own
The greatest gains often come not from new technology, but from better understanding of the machine already in your hand.


A Note from Experience

I’ve detected through several technological generations — from basic BFO machines to pulse induction and modern multi-frequency units. Each step forward genuinely improved performance. But none of them replaced the fundamentals: site research, patience, coil control, and judgement.

Technology widens the window of opportunity. It doesn’t replace experience.


Conclusion

Staying updated on technology is wise. Being ruled by it is not.

Understand what’s new. Test it when you can. Upgrade when there is a clear reason. But remember that the detector is only one part of the equation. Knowledge of land, history, and human behaviour still matter more than circuitry.

Categories: TIPS | Tags: ,

Top Tip #48: Learn from Others

Because shared experience is one of the most valuable tools you’ll ever use.

When I first started metal detecting in the early 1970s, reliable information was thin on the ground. There were no online videos, no forums, and no instant answers—just one or two books, the odd magazine article, and whatever you could work out for yourself in the field.

I recently reflected on those early years in an article published in Treasure Hunting magazine, looking back at how much of my learning came through trial, error, and the occasional chance encounter with another detectorist. Progress was slow, mistakes were frequent, and good advice—when it appeared—was invaluable.

That early experience left a lasting impression. It made me acutely aware of how important shared knowledge is in this hobby, and how much easier the learning curve becomes when detectorists are willing to pass on what they’ve discovered.

Today, of course, the situation is very different. Information is everywhere. Videos, books, blogs, podcasts, forums, and social media offer a constant stream of advice and opinion. The challenge now isn’t finding information—it’s knowing how to absorb it, test it, and apply it intelligently.

Why Learning from Others Matters

One of the strengths of metal detecting is that it’s a shared pursuit, even when carried out alone. Every detectorist brings a slightly different background, set of permissions, and way of working.

Over the years, I’ve picked up techniques from club members on wet winter pasture, from chance conversations at rallies, from articles written decades ago, and from mistakes openly shared by others. Very little of what I now regard as “my own approach” was invented in isolation.

Learning from others matters because:

  • Different perspectives reveal blind spots. What works on one type of ground may fail completely on another.
  • Good technique is often observed, not explained. Watching how someone else listens to signals or recovers targets can be more instructive than pages of description.
  • The hobby evolves. Detectors change, research methods improve, and old assumptions are regularly challenged.

Practical Ways to Learn from Others

1. Watch Others Detect
Seeing detectors used in real conditions—rather than just discussed—can be invaluable. Subtle habits, coil control, and decision-making often explain success more clearly than specifications ever do.

2. Read Widely and Carefully
Books and magazine articles remain some of the best sources of structured knowledge, particularly when it comes to site research and historical context. Some of the most useful detecting advice I’ve encountered was written long before modern detectors existed—and still holds true.

3. Use Forums as a Reference, Not a Rulebook
Forums can be enormously helpful, especially when searching past discussions. Over time, patterns emerge: certain advice keeps resurfacing because it works. Treat opinions as starting points, not instructions set in stone.

4. Learn Locally Whenever Possible
Advice from someone detecting similar ground is often worth more than general guidance. Club talks, casual conversations in the field, and shared permissions are where many practical lessons are learned.

5. Attend Events and Rallies
Rallies and club events aren’t just about finds. Watching how others approach the same field, and comparing results afterwards, can be a powerful learning experience.

6. Listen While You Work
Podcasts, talks, and recorded discussions are useful companions on long journeys or quiet evenings. Hearing experienced detectorists talk through their reasoning often reveals as much as their successes.

7. Read Blogs and Long-Form Accounts
Short posts show results; longer accounts explain process. Blogs that describe failures, dead sites, or slow learning curves are often the most instructive.

8. Share Your Own Experiences
At some point, you realise that explaining something to someone else forces you to clarify it for yourself. Writing articles, keeping notes, or simply talking through a hunt often reveals what you’ve actually learned.

9. Learn to Filter Advice
Not all advice is equal. Experience teaches you to recognise thoughtful, measured guidance—and to be cautious of absolutes and shortcuts.

10. Keep Learning, Even After Decades
The longer you detect, the more you realise how much remains to be understood. That’s part of what keeps the hobby interesting.


Conclusion

Metal detecting is often described as a solitary hobby, but no one truly learns it alone. Most of what we value—technique, judgement, patience—comes from listening to others, watching carefully, and applying those lessons thoughtfully in the field.

The key is not to follow every piece of advice, but to learn from many sources, test what you hear, and gradually build an approach that suits your own sites, your own equipment, and your own way of detecting. That process never really ends—and that’s no bad thing.

Categories: TIPS | Tags: ,

Top Tip #47: Use Multiple Detectors

Consider using different detectors for different environments.

Anyone who spends a lot of time metal detecting usually ends up with more than one detector. That isn’t about collecting equipment for its own sake; it’s a practical response to the fact that no single machine performs equally well in every situation.

I personally use three detectors: a Minelab Equinox 800 as my main all-round machine, a Detech EDS as a dependable back-up, and a Detech SSP-3000 pulse-induction detector for deep-seeking work. Alongside these, I keep a selection of search heads for each machine. I wouldn’t suggest this is the perfect setup, but it allows me to work effectively across a wide variety of sites and conditions—and that is the real objective.


Why Using Multiple Detectors Matters

Different detectors are designed with different priorities in mind: depth, sensitivity, target separation, or performance in mineralised ground. Having more than one machine gives you the flexibility to adapt rather than compromise.

The result is fewer missed targets, less frustration, and better results over time—especially when conditions change during a hunt.


Practical Tips for Using Multiple Detectors

1. Use Detectors for What They Do Best
Some detectors excel in mineralised soil, others in iron contamination, shallow water, or deep pasture. Matching the machine to the conditions almost always improves results.

2. Build a Complementary Setup
Rather than owning several similar detectors, choose machines that cover different roles—for example, a general-purpose detector, a specialist deep seeker, or a waterproof unit.

3. Keep a Reliable Back-Up
Detectors do fail, often at the worst possible moment. A dependable back-up machine can save a day’s detecting and is especially useful on permissions or organised events.

4. Learn Each Detector Thoroughly
Every detector behaves differently. Time spent understanding settings such as sensitivity, discrimination, and ground balance will often pay greater dividends than upgrading equipment.

5. Be Ready to Switch as Conditions Change
If you move from clean pasture to iron-ridden ground, or from dry soil to wet sand, changing detector—or even just the search head—can make a dramatic difference.


Search Heads (Coils): A Key Part of the System

The search head plays a major role in how a detector performs. While “coil” and “search head” are often used interchangeably, it’s helpful to think of the search head as the complete unit, with the coil being the electrical winding inside it.

Most detectors are supplied with a standard search head of around ten inches (25cm) in diameter. This size represents a compromise that works reasonably well in many situations, but it is rarely ideal.

Manufacturers usually offer optional search heads ranging from about 3.5 inches (9cm) to 15 inches (38cm) or more, and using the right size can significantly improve performance.

6. Choose Search Head Size to Suit the Ground
As a rule of thumb, larger search heads detect deeper and cover more ground, while smaller heads offer better sensitivity to small targets and cope better with iron contamination.

7. Understand Coil Types
Concentric coils provide maximum depth directly beneath the centre of the search head and work well on cleaner ground.
Widescan (DD) coils cover more ground per sweep and perform better in mineralised soil.
Less common SEF coils combine aspects of both and aim to balance depth with coverage.

8. Accept the Trade-Offs
Larger search heads are heavier, less sensitive to small targets, not as precise when pinpointing, and more tiring to use. Weight can sometimes be reduced by hip- or chest-mounting the control box, or by using a bungee harness.


Care, Maintenance, and Good Habits

9. Always Use a Scuff Cover
A scuff cover protects the underside of the search head from wear. They are inexpensive to replace and far cheaper than a new search head.

10. Look After Batteries and Storage
If a detector won’t be used for long periods, remove the batteries. This simple habit prevents corrosion and prolongs the life of your equipment.

11. Keep Records of Performance
Logging which detector and search head were used, along with settings and results, quickly builds a personal reference guide for future hunts.


Conclusion

Using multiple detectors isn’t about owning more equipment—it’s about flexibility. A carefully chosen, well-understood combination of machines and search heads allows you to adapt to changing conditions, improve performance, and get the most from every site you detect.

I’ve met people who own dozens—or even hundreds—of detectors, but for most of us, a small, complementary setup used thoughtfully will outperform a shed full of unfamiliar machines every time.

If you’re new here, there’s a short free guide on the site that sets out how I approach site research, finds management, and gaining permission. You can find it here » Resources True Treasure Books

Categories: TIPS | Tags: ,

Top Tip #46: Attend Metal Detecting Events

Organised metal detecting events — rallies, club digs, and token hunts — can play a valuable role in a detectorist’s journey, especially if your opportunities to detect are otherwise limited.

They’re not a shortcut to great finds, and they’re not for everyone, but over the years I’ve found they offer experiences that are hard to gain any other way.

Why Detecting Events Are Worth Considering

One of the biggest advantages of organised events is access to land. Large rallies often take place on estates, parkland, or farmland that would be extremely difficult to secure permission for as an individual. If you have few permissions — or none at all — this alone can make an event worthwhile.

Events also give you the chance to detect at scale. Working a field alongside many others teaches useful lessons about patience, timing, and target selection. You quickly learn that good finds are rarely evenly distributed, and that reading the land still matters, even when hundreds of detectors are in play.

There’s also a strong social element. Rallies bring together people who share the same interest, and there’s value in conversation, comparison, and shared experience — whether that’s at the finds table, the trade stalls, or over a beer.

Learning Without Being Taught

One of the quieter benefits of events is what you pick up simply by observing others.

You see different machines in use, different approaches to the same ground, and different attitudes to success and disappointment. Watching where people drift, where they linger, and where they give up can be surprisingly instructive.

Occasionally, organised events also include talks, demonstrations, or vendor displays, which can be useful — but the real learning often happens in the field.

The Reality Check

It’s important to be honest about the downsides.

Events cost money. Entry fees, travel, food, and sometimes accommodation all add up, and only a small number of attendees will ever “win” a rally in financial terms.

Ground can be crowded, information about the site is usually limited beforehand, and luck plays a significant role — particularly in token hunts and prize draws.

In my own experience, only a minority of events proved profitable. However, the better ones more than covered the cost of the poorer ones, and the overall experience justified the time spent.

Making the Most of an Event

If you do attend, mindset matters:

  • Treat any worthwhile find as a bonus
  • Read the land as you would on a normal permission
  • Don’t assume ground is “done” just because others have passed over it
  • Be mindful of boundaries and rules — one mistake can jeopardise future events

Above all, pace yourself. Long days on unfamiliar ground can be surprisingly tiring.

So — Should You Attend?

If you enjoy research-led detecting on quiet permissions, rallies may feel chaotic.
If you enjoy variety, social contact, and the occasional surprise, they can be rewarding.

They’re particularly useful if:

  • You’re short on permissions
  • You want broader experience
  • You enjoy detecting as a shared activity
  • You’re realistic about outcomes

Final Thought

Metal detecting events won’t replace careful research or long-term permissions — but they can broaden your experience, sharpen your instincts, and occasionally deliver something memorable.

Go for the experience.
Enjoy the company.
And if you happen to find or win something special, regard it as exactly what it is: a bonus.

Categories: TIPS | Tags: ,

Top Tip #45: Keep Records

One habit separates casual detectorists from consistently successful ones: keeping records. It doesn’t sound exciting, and it doesn’t beep or flash — but maintaining a log of your finds and the places they came from is one of the most powerful tools you can use to improve results over time.

I learned this the hard way.

Why Keeping Records Really Matters

Most of us remember our best finds — but memory is unreliable when you’re dealing with dozens of fields, permissions, and hundreds (sometimes thousands) of individual signals.

A proper log helps you:

  • Track progress over time
    You begin to see how your skills, research, and site choices improve year by year.
  • Spot patterns and productive areas
    Finds rarely happen at random. Clusters emerge — certain slopes, boundaries, routes, or soil types quietly reveal themselves only when you step back and review your notes.
  • Refine your detecting technique
    Looking back at what worked (and what didn’t) helps you adjust settings, coil choice, and search strategy with confidence.
  • Preserve historical context
    A single coin is interesting. A group of finds recorded with locations and dates tells a much richer story about how a site was used.
  • Stay organised and compliant
    Accurate records make reporting to the PAS, landowners, or clubs far easier — and far more professional.
  • Create a personal archive
    Years later, your logs become a fascinating record of your detecting life — not just what you found, but where, how, and why.

What to Record (Without Over complicating It)

You can go as detailed as you like, but at minimum I recommend noting:

  • Date
  • Site name or reference
  • General location (or grid reference)
  • Object type
  • Depth (if known)
  • Any brief observations (soil, condition, context)

Photos are a bonus — especially shots taken in situ before removal — but written notes remain invaluable long after phones are upgraded or files misplaced.

The Diaries That Changed How I Looked at Detecting

I always admired the metal detecting diaries my friend Brian kept.

They weren’t just lists of finds. They were beautifully detailed records of sites: sketches, field layouts, notes on soil and topography, snippets of local history, even the odd hand-drawn map. Over time, those diaries became works of art — but more importantly, they became an invaluable reference.

What struck me most was that Brian wasn’t just recording what he’d found — he was recording why he’d found it. Patterns emerged. Old routes became obvious. Productive areas revealed themselves not by chance, but through careful observation and record-keeping.

I envied that discipline. Like many detectorists, I told myself I’d “write it up later” and muddled through with spreadsheets, loose notes, and half-remembered details. It worked for a while — until it didn’t.

When finds mounted up, sites blurred together, and I realised I was losing information I could never recover, Brian’s diaries came back to mind. They weren’t just a record of the past — they were a tool for future success.

That’s when I started taking record-keeping seriously.

How I Actually Record Sites and Finds

Over the years I’ve tried spreadsheets, folders, and digital notes, but what finally stuck was a side-by-side system: site information on one page, finds on the facing page.

It keeps everything connected — the place and the objects found there — which is how detecting really works in practice.

Site Record (Left Page)

I always start a fresh Site Record page for each new site. Mixing multiple sites on one page is a false economy — it becomes confusing surprisingly quickly.

At the top, I note the basics:

  • Date
  • Site name
  • Landowner
  • Contact details

The Notes section is where the real value builds over time. This is for:

  • Research (references, historic maps, estate records)
  • Old footpaths, buildings, boundaries
  • Field names, acreage, land use
  • Observations from the ground

The lower part of the page is deliberately left open. Sometimes I sketch a field layout; sometimes I glue in a map extract or photo. If I have more notes than drawings, I just keep writing. Flexibility matters.

Finds Record (Right Page)

Opposite the site notes is the Finds Record, where each object is logged.

I try to record as much as is practical:

  • Identification (or best guess)
  • Material
  • Measurements (diameter, thickness, weight)
  • Any distinguishing features

Photos are invaluable. Ideally, I’ll take front and back shots (and side views for most artefacts), with a scale. If there are multiple images or digital records, I simply note where they’re stored in the Reference column.

The Findspot is best recorded as an accurate map reference where possible.
The Location records where the item is now — drawer, display, with the landowner, recorded, or sold.

For anything that needs expanding — PAS record numbers, detector settings, longer notes — the Reference column links it all together.

If a site runs over multiple pages, I just cross-reference the page numbers. Index pages at the back make it easy to find sites or specific finds later.

A Journal, Not a Rule book

The most important point is this: there’s no single “correct” way to keep records.

This is your journal. Use it in a way that suits how you detect. Some people write pages of notes. Others log only key finds. Both approaches work — as long as you’re consistent.

A Simple Option (If You Want One)

After years of trial and error, I eventually put together a very straightforward logbook based on this system — nothing fancy, no apps, just a practical tool that encourages the habit.

If you’re interested, I’ve linked to the logbooks on my website (which then links through to Amazon). There are versions covering:

No pressure — you can do all of this with a notebook if you prefer. The key thing is to start recording and keep going.

Final Thought

Most great detecting sites don’t reveal themselves in a single visit.
They reveal themselves over time, through patterns — and patterns only become visible when you write things down.

Your future self will thank you.

Articles and tips are now grouped by topic here: Metal Detecting Guides & Tips

» Metal Detecting Guides & Tips True Treasure Books

Categories: TIPS | Tags: , ,

Proudly powered by WordPress Theme: Adventure Journal by Contexture International.