Top Tip #49: Stay Updated on Technology

But don’t mistake new for necessary.

Metal detecting technology has advanced enormously since the early days of BFO machines and constant re-tuning. Multi-frequency detectors, improved discrimination, faster recovery speeds, lighter builds, wireless audio, waterproof housings — today’s machines are undeniably more capable than those of fifty years ago.

But here’s the important part: staying updated on technology doesn’t mean constantly upgrading.

It means understanding what is changing, why it matters, and whether it genuinely applies to the type of detecting you do.


Why Staying Updated on Technology Matters

  1. Improved Performance — When It’s Relevant
    Advances in multi-frequency processing, ground handling, and target separation can genuinely improve results, particularly on mineralised soil or iron-infested sites.
  2. Greater Efficiency
    Faster recovery speeds and better ergonomics allow you to cover more ground comfortably — especially useful on ploughed land or large pasture permissions.
  3. Better Ground Adaptability
    Waterproof machines, improved salt handling, and more stable ground balance systems have transformed beach detecting compared to earlier generations.
  4. Longevity of Your Investment
    Understanding firmware updates, accessory options, and coil compatibility helps you get more life from the machine you already own.
  5. Avoiding Costly Mistakes
    Knowing what a new feature actually does prevents unnecessary upgrades driven by marketing rather than need.

Practical Ways to Stay Updated (Without Chasing Every Release)

1. Read Reviews Critically
Look beyond promotional language. Ask: does this feature solve a real problem on my type of ground?

2. Use Magazines and Trusted Publications
Established detecting magazines remain one of the better sources of balanced equipment reviews and real-world field reports.

3. Listen to Experienced Detectorists
Club members who have actually used new machines on similar soil conditions often provide more useful insight than online hype.

4. Attend Dealer Demo Days
If possible, try new machines yourself. A short hands-on session in familiar ground tells you far more than hours of online research.

5. Follow Manufacturers — Selectively
Keep an eye on official announcements for firmware updates and genuine innovations, but remember that not every new model represents a revolution.

6. Watch Field Tests, Not Studio Reviews
Videos filmed on real farmland, wet sand, or iron-heavy sites reveal more than carefully controlled demonstrations.

7. Understand Coil Developments
Sometimes the most meaningful “upgrade” isn’t a new detector, but a different search head suited to your ground conditions.

8. Compare Before Replacing
Ask yourself what your current detector cannot do. If you cannot clearly answer that question, you probably don’t need to upgrade.

9. Balance Cost Against Opportunity
Money spent on travel to new permissions, research materials, or club memberships can sometimes yield more finds than a marginal equipment upgrade.

10. Master What You Already Own
The greatest gains often come not from new technology, but from better understanding of the machine already in your hand.


A Note from Experience

I’ve detected through several technological generations — from basic BFO machines to pulse induction and modern multi-frequency units. Each step forward genuinely improved performance. But none of them replaced the fundamentals: site research, patience, coil control, and judgement.

Technology widens the window of opportunity. It doesn’t replace experience.


Conclusion

Staying updated on technology is wise. Being ruled by it is not.

Understand what’s new. Test it when you can. Upgrade when there is a clear reason. But remember that the detector is only one part of the equation. Knowledge of land, history, and human behaviour still matter more than circuitry.

Categories: TIPS | Tags: ,

Top Tip #48: Learn from Others

Because shared experience is one of the most valuable tools you’ll ever use.

When I first started metal detecting in the early 1970s, reliable information was thin on the ground. There were no online videos, no forums, and no instant answers—just one or two books, the odd magazine article, and whatever you could work out for yourself in the field.

I recently reflected on those early years in an article published in Treasure Hunting magazine, looking back at how much of my learning came through trial, error, and the occasional chance encounter with another detectorist. Progress was slow, mistakes were frequent, and good advice—when it appeared—was invaluable.

That early experience left a lasting impression. It made me acutely aware of how important shared knowledge is in this hobby, and how much easier the learning curve becomes when detectorists are willing to pass on what they’ve discovered.

Today, of course, the situation is very different. Information is everywhere. Videos, books, blogs, podcasts, forums, and social media offer a constant stream of advice and opinion. The challenge now isn’t finding information—it’s knowing how to absorb it, test it, and apply it intelligently.

Why Learning from Others Matters

One of the strengths of metal detecting is that it’s a shared pursuit, even when carried out alone. Every detectorist brings a slightly different background, set of permissions, and way of working.

Over the years, I’ve picked up techniques from club members on wet winter pasture, from chance conversations at rallies, from articles written decades ago, and from mistakes openly shared by others. Very little of what I now regard as “my own approach” was invented in isolation.

Learning from others matters because:

  • Different perspectives reveal blind spots. What works on one type of ground may fail completely on another.
  • Good technique is often observed, not explained. Watching how someone else listens to signals or recovers targets can be more instructive than pages of description.
  • The hobby evolves. Detectors change, research methods improve, and old assumptions are regularly challenged.

Practical Ways to Learn from Others

1. Watch Others Detect
Seeing detectors used in real conditions—rather than just discussed—can be invaluable. Subtle habits, coil control, and decision-making often explain success more clearly than specifications ever do.

2. Read Widely and Carefully
Books and magazine articles remain some of the best sources of structured knowledge, particularly when it comes to site research and historical context. Some of the most useful detecting advice I’ve encountered was written long before modern detectors existed—and still holds true.

3. Use Forums as a Reference, Not a Rulebook
Forums can be enormously helpful, especially when searching past discussions. Over time, patterns emerge: certain advice keeps resurfacing because it works. Treat opinions as starting points, not instructions set in stone.

4. Learn Locally Whenever Possible
Advice from someone detecting similar ground is often worth more than general guidance. Club talks, casual conversations in the field, and shared permissions are where many practical lessons are learned.

5. Attend Events and Rallies
Rallies and club events aren’t just about finds. Watching how others approach the same field, and comparing results afterwards, can be a powerful learning experience.

6. Listen While You Work
Podcasts, talks, and recorded discussions are useful companions on long journeys or quiet evenings. Hearing experienced detectorists talk through their reasoning often reveals as much as their successes.

7. Read Blogs and Long-Form Accounts
Short posts show results; longer accounts explain process. Blogs that describe failures, dead sites, or slow learning curves are often the most instructive.

8. Share Your Own Experiences
At some point, you realise that explaining something to someone else forces you to clarify it for yourself. Writing articles, keeping notes, or simply talking through a hunt often reveals what you’ve actually learned.

9. Learn to Filter Advice
Not all advice is equal. Experience teaches you to recognise thoughtful, measured guidance—and to be cautious of absolutes and shortcuts.

10. Keep Learning, Even After Decades
The longer you detect, the more you realise how much remains to be understood. That’s part of what keeps the hobby interesting.


Conclusion

Metal detecting is often described as a solitary hobby, but no one truly learns it alone. Most of what we value—technique, judgement, patience—comes from listening to others, watching carefully, and applying those lessons thoughtfully in the field.

The key is not to follow every piece of advice, but to learn from many sources, test what you hear, and gradually build an approach that suits your own sites, your own equipment, and your own way of detecting. That process never really ends—and that’s no bad thing.

Categories: TIPS | Tags: ,

Top Tip #47: Use Multiple Detectors

Consider using different detectors for different environments.

Anyone who spends a lot of time metal detecting usually ends up with more than one detector. That isn’t about collecting equipment for its own sake; it’s a practical response to the fact that no single machine performs equally well in every situation.

I personally use three detectors: a Minelab Equinox 800 as my main all-round machine, a Detech EDS as a dependable back-up, and a Detech SSP-3000 pulse-induction detector for deep-seeking work. Alongside these, I keep a selection of search heads for each machine. I wouldn’t suggest this is the perfect setup, but it allows me to work effectively across a wide variety of sites and conditions—and that is the real objective.


Why Using Multiple Detectors Matters

Different detectors are designed with different priorities in mind: depth, sensitivity, target separation, or performance in mineralised ground. Having more than one machine gives you the flexibility to adapt rather than compromise.

The result is fewer missed targets, less frustration, and better results over time—especially when conditions change during a hunt.


Practical Tips for Using Multiple Detectors

1. Use Detectors for What They Do Best
Some detectors excel in mineralised soil, others in iron contamination, shallow water, or deep pasture. Matching the machine to the conditions almost always improves results.

2. Build a Complementary Setup
Rather than owning several similar detectors, choose machines that cover different roles—for example, a general-purpose detector, a specialist deep seeker, or a waterproof unit.

3. Keep a Reliable Back-Up
Detectors do fail, often at the worst possible moment. A dependable back-up machine can save a day’s detecting and is especially useful on permissions or organised events.

4. Learn Each Detector Thoroughly
Every detector behaves differently. Time spent understanding settings such as sensitivity, discrimination, and ground balance will often pay greater dividends than upgrading equipment.

5. Be Ready to Switch as Conditions Change
If you move from clean pasture to iron-ridden ground, or from dry soil to wet sand, changing detector—or even just the search head—can make a dramatic difference.


Search Heads (Coils): A Key Part of the System

The search head plays a major role in how a detector performs. While “coil” and “search head” are often used interchangeably, it’s helpful to think of the search head as the complete unit, with the coil being the electrical winding inside it.

Most detectors are supplied with a standard search head of around ten inches (25cm) in diameter. This size represents a compromise that works reasonably well in many situations, but it is rarely ideal.

Manufacturers usually offer optional search heads ranging from about 3.5 inches (9cm) to 15 inches (38cm) or more, and using the right size can significantly improve performance.

6. Choose Search Head Size to Suit the Ground
As a rule of thumb, larger search heads detect deeper and cover more ground, while smaller heads offer better sensitivity to small targets and cope better with iron contamination.

7. Understand Coil Types
Concentric coils provide maximum depth directly beneath the centre of the search head and work well on cleaner ground.
Widescan (DD) coils cover more ground per sweep and perform better in mineralised soil.
Less common SEF coils combine aspects of both and aim to balance depth with coverage.

8. Accept the Trade-Offs
Larger search heads are heavier, less sensitive to small targets, not as precise when pinpointing, and more tiring to use. Weight can sometimes be reduced by hip- or chest-mounting the control box, or by using a bungee harness.


Care, Maintenance, and Good Habits

9. Always Use a Scuff Cover
A scuff cover protects the underside of the search head from wear. They are inexpensive to replace and far cheaper than a new search head.

10. Look After Batteries and Storage
If a detector won’t be used for long periods, remove the batteries. This simple habit prevents corrosion and prolongs the life of your equipment.

11. Keep Records of Performance
Logging which detector and search head were used, along with settings and results, quickly builds a personal reference guide for future hunts.


Conclusion

Using multiple detectors isn’t about owning more equipment—it’s about flexibility. A carefully chosen, well-understood combination of machines and search heads allows you to adapt to changing conditions, improve performance, and get the most from every site you detect.

I’ve met people who own dozens—or even hundreds—of detectors, but for most of us, a small, complementary setup used thoughtfully will outperform a shed full of unfamiliar machines every time.

If you’re new here, there’s a short free guide on the site that sets out how I approach site research, finds management, and gaining permission. You can find it here » Resources True Treasure Books

Categories: TIPS | Tags: ,

Top Tip #46: Attend Metal Detecting Events

Organised metal detecting events — rallies, club digs, and token hunts — can play a valuable role in a detectorist’s journey, especially if your opportunities to detect are otherwise limited.

They’re not a shortcut to great finds, and they’re not for everyone, but over the years I’ve found they offer experiences that are hard to gain any other way.

Why Detecting Events Are Worth Considering

One of the biggest advantages of organised events is access to land. Large rallies often take place on estates, parkland, or farmland that would be extremely difficult to secure permission for as an individual. If you have few permissions — or none at all — this alone can make an event worthwhile.

Events also give you the chance to detect at scale. Working a field alongside many others teaches useful lessons about patience, timing, and target selection. You quickly learn that good finds are rarely evenly distributed, and that reading the land still matters, even when hundreds of detectors are in play.

There’s also a strong social element. Rallies bring together people who share the same interest, and there’s value in conversation, comparison, and shared experience — whether that’s at the finds table, the trade stalls, or over a beer.

Learning Without Being Taught

One of the quieter benefits of events is what you pick up simply by observing others.

You see different machines in use, different approaches to the same ground, and different attitudes to success and disappointment. Watching where people drift, where they linger, and where they give up can be surprisingly instructive.

Occasionally, organised events also include talks, demonstrations, or vendor displays, which can be useful — but the real learning often happens in the field.

The Reality Check

It’s important to be honest about the downsides.

Events cost money. Entry fees, travel, food, and sometimes accommodation all add up, and only a small number of attendees will ever “win” a rally in financial terms.

Ground can be crowded, information about the site is usually limited beforehand, and luck plays a significant role — particularly in token hunts and prize draws.

In my own experience, only a minority of events proved profitable. However, the better ones more than covered the cost of the poorer ones, and the overall experience justified the time spent.

Making the Most of an Event

If you do attend, mindset matters:

  • Treat any worthwhile find as a bonus
  • Read the land as you would on a normal permission
  • Don’t assume ground is “done” just because others have passed over it
  • Be mindful of boundaries and rules — one mistake can jeopardise future events

Above all, pace yourself. Long days on unfamiliar ground can be surprisingly tiring.

So — Should You Attend?

If you enjoy research-led detecting on quiet permissions, rallies may feel chaotic.
If you enjoy variety, social contact, and the occasional surprise, they can be rewarding.

They’re particularly useful if:

  • You’re short on permissions
  • You want broader experience
  • You enjoy detecting as a shared activity
  • You’re realistic about outcomes

Final Thought

Metal detecting events won’t replace careful research or long-term permissions — but they can broaden your experience, sharpen your instincts, and occasionally deliver something memorable.

Go for the experience.
Enjoy the company.
And if you happen to find or win something special, regard it as exactly what it is: a bonus.

Categories: TIPS | Tags: ,

Top Tip #45: Keep Records

One habit separates casual detectorists from consistently successful ones: keeping records. It doesn’t sound exciting, and it doesn’t beep or flash — but maintaining a log of your finds and the places they came from is one of the most powerful tools you can use to improve results over time.

I learned this the hard way.

Why Keeping Records Really Matters

Most of us remember our best finds — but memory is unreliable when you’re dealing with dozens of fields, permissions, and hundreds (sometimes thousands) of individual signals.

A proper log helps you:

  • Track progress over time
    You begin to see how your skills, research, and site choices improve year by year.
  • Spot patterns and productive areas
    Finds rarely happen at random. Clusters emerge — certain slopes, boundaries, routes, or soil types quietly reveal themselves only when you step back and review your notes.
  • Refine your detecting technique
    Looking back at what worked (and what didn’t) helps you adjust settings, coil choice, and search strategy with confidence.
  • Preserve historical context
    A single coin is interesting. A group of finds recorded with locations and dates tells a much richer story about how a site was used.
  • Stay organised and compliant
    Accurate records make reporting to the PAS, landowners, or clubs far easier — and far more professional.
  • Create a personal archive
    Years later, your logs become a fascinating record of your detecting life — not just what you found, but where, how, and why.

What to Record (Without Over complicating It)

You can go as detailed as you like, but at minimum I recommend noting:

  • Date
  • Site name or reference
  • General location (or grid reference)
  • Object type
  • Depth (if known)
  • Any brief observations (soil, condition, context)

Photos are a bonus — especially shots taken in situ before removal — but written notes remain invaluable long after phones are upgraded or files misplaced.

The Diaries That Changed How I Looked at Detecting

I always admired the metal detecting diaries my friend Brian kept.

They weren’t just lists of finds. They were beautifully detailed records of sites: sketches, field layouts, notes on soil and topography, snippets of local history, even the odd hand-drawn map. Over time, those diaries became works of art — but more importantly, they became an invaluable reference.

What struck me most was that Brian wasn’t just recording what he’d found — he was recording why he’d found it. Patterns emerged. Old routes became obvious. Productive areas revealed themselves not by chance, but through careful observation and record-keeping.

I envied that discipline. Like many detectorists, I told myself I’d “write it up later” and muddled through with spreadsheets, loose notes, and half-remembered details. It worked for a while — until it didn’t.

When finds mounted up, sites blurred together, and I realised I was losing information I could never recover, Brian’s diaries came back to mind. They weren’t just a record of the past — they were a tool for future success.

That’s when I started taking record-keeping seriously.

How I Actually Record Sites and Finds

Over the years I’ve tried spreadsheets, folders, and digital notes, but what finally stuck was a side-by-side system: site information on one page, finds on the facing page.

It keeps everything connected — the place and the objects found there — which is how detecting really works in practice.

Site Record (Left Page)

I always start a fresh Site Record page for each new site. Mixing multiple sites on one page is a false economy — it becomes confusing surprisingly quickly.

At the top, I note the basics:

  • Date
  • Site name
  • Landowner
  • Contact details

The Notes section is where the real value builds over time. This is for:

  • Research (references, historic maps, estate records)
  • Old footpaths, buildings, boundaries
  • Field names, acreage, land use
  • Observations from the ground

The lower part of the page is deliberately left open. Sometimes I sketch a field layout; sometimes I glue in a map extract or photo. If I have more notes than drawings, I just keep writing. Flexibility matters.

Finds Record (Right Page)

Opposite the site notes is the Finds Record, where each object is logged.

I try to record as much as is practical:

  • Identification (or best guess)
  • Material
  • Measurements (diameter, thickness, weight)
  • Any distinguishing features

Photos are invaluable. Ideally, I’ll take front and back shots (and side views for most artefacts), with a scale. If there are multiple images or digital records, I simply note where they’re stored in the Reference column.

The Findspot is best recorded as an accurate map reference where possible.
The Location records where the item is now — drawer, display, with the landowner, recorded, or sold.

For anything that needs expanding — PAS record numbers, detector settings, longer notes — the Reference column links it all together.

If a site runs over multiple pages, I just cross-reference the page numbers. Index pages at the back make it easy to find sites or specific finds later.

A Journal, Not a Rule book

The most important point is this: there’s no single “correct” way to keep records.

This is your journal. Use it in a way that suits how you detect. Some people write pages of notes. Others log only key finds. Both approaches work — as long as you’re consistent.

A Simple Option (If You Want One)

After years of trial and error, I eventually put together a very straightforward logbook based on this system — nothing fancy, no apps, just a practical tool that encourages the habit.

If you’re interested, I’ve linked to the logbooks on my website (which then links through to Amazon). There are versions covering:

No pressure — you can do all of this with a notebook if you prefer. The key thing is to start recording and keep going.

Final Thought

Most great detecting sites don’t reveal themselves in a single visit.
They reveal themselves over time, through patterns — and patterns only become visible when you write things down.

Your future self will thank you.

Articles and tips are now grouped by topic here: Metal Detecting Guides & Tips

» Metal Detecting Guides & Tips True Treasure Books

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Top Tip #44: Use a Detector Cover (Yes, It Actually Matters)

Detector covers are one of those accessories many people either forget about entirely or dismiss as unnecessary. I know this because I did exactly the same for years.

After all, detectors are meant to be used outdoors — muddy fields, damp grass, stubble, and the odd downpour come with the territory. But experience has taught me that a simple cover can save a lot of irritation, expense, and premature wear.

Why detector covers earn their keep

Most damage to a detector doesn’t come from dramatic accidents. It comes from slow, cumulative abuse: grit working its way into buttons, moisture sitting unnoticed around the control box, screens becoming scuffed and cloudy over time.

A cover won’t make your detector indestructible, but it does act as a first line of defence against:

* fine dust and soil that gets everywhere on arable land

* damp grass and light rain that gradually work their way into seams

* scratches to screens and housings from constant handling

If you’ve ever tried cleaning dried mud out of button recesses at the end of a long day, you’ll already know why this matters.

Weather, wear, and realism

Covers are particularly useful in conditions where you know your detector is going to get knocked about:

* winter pasture

* ploughed land with clods and flints

* wet days when rain isn’t quite bad enough to stop you detecting

They’re also helpful in bright sunlight. A good cover can reduce glare and protect screens from long-term UV exposure, which does take its toll over the years.

That said, they’re not magic. A badly fitting cover, or one made from cheap material, can be more annoying than helpful. If it constantly slips, traps moisture, or makes buttons awkward to press, you’ll soon stop using it.

Choosing a cover that actually works

In my experience, the best covers are:

* model-specific, not “one size fits all”

* made from durable, flexible material rather than stiff plastic

* designed so you can see and use the controls easily

Ventilation matters too. A completely sealed cover can trap condensation, particularly if you’re moving between cold fields and a warm car. Breathable, water-resistant materials strike the right balance.

Don’t forget storage and transport

A detector doesn’t stop ageing when it’s not in use. Dust, knocks, and damp garages all take their toll. Leaving the cover on during storage — especially if you detect regularly — helps keep everything in better condition between outings.

It’s also worth checking compatibility with any accessories you use. External batteries, leads, or mounts can be awkward if a cover hasn’t been designed with them in mind.

A small habit that pays off

Using a detector cover won’t suddenly improve your finds rate, but it will help your detector stay reliable and presentable for longer. It’s one of those small, sensible habits that only really proves its value over time — particularly if you ever decide to sell or upgrade your machine.

Like many aspects of detecting, it’s not about being precious with your kit, just looking after it sensibly so it’s ready to go when you are.

Categories: TIPS | Tags: ,

The Strange Fate of Buried Treasure: Gold Bars, Lost Hoards, and Who Really Owns What You Find

If you discovered gold bars worth €700,000 buried in your garden, what would you do?

For one Frenchman, the answer seemed straightforward: report it. Be honest. Do the right thing.

But instead of a windfall, he’s likely to watch the treasure go to the children of the property’s previous owner — people he has never met, who had no idea a fortune was hidden beneath the soil.

It’s the kind of story newspapers love: moral virtue punished, serendipity reversed, the old “no good deed goes unpunished” with a glint of literal gold. But beneath the headlines lies a much larger question:

When treasure is found, who does it really belong to — the finder, the landowner, the state, or the original owner (even decades later)?

The Law Isn’t Romantic — and It’s Rarely on the Finder’s Side

In France, and in most of the Western world, treasure found on private land belongs to:

1. the original owner, or

2. their heirs,

3. finder/landowner/state if owner cannot be identified.

In other words, the law treats most long-lost hoards not as “treasure” but as mislaid property. Forgotten property is still property, even if it sits in the ground for half a century or more.

And this is why the French gardener, despite doing everything honestly and transparently, will almost certainly go home empty-handed.

The Counter-Argument: Honesty May Have Saved Him

There is, however, one not-so-small consolation:

Had he quietly kept the gold or tried to sell it, he could have faced theft-by-finding charges — a real criminal offence in France, the UK, the US, and many other jurisdictions.

So yes, honesty cost him €700,000.

But dishonesty might have cost him his freedom.

 This Has Happened Before: The Hackney Hoard

PAS-867115. Photograph by Portable Antiquities Scheme, reused under a Creative Commons [CC By 2.0] Licence

The situation echoes the Hackney Hoard — jars of gold US dollars discovered during pond construction in London in 2007. Despite their age, the coins did not automatically belong to the finder or even the landowner. Instead, the case sparked a lengthy investigation into:

* WWII-era banking habits,

* the rights of surviving family members,

* and whether the coins could be traced to an identifiable owner.

As with the French discovery, the law placed the emphasis firmly on original ownership, not the lucky discoverer.

 What if King John’s Lost Treasure Turned Up?

A favourite historical thought experiment:

In 1216, King John famously lost his baggage train — including gold, regalia, and royal treasure — in the marshes of The Wash. It has never been recovered.

So if someone found it today, who would it belong to?

* the finder?

* the landowner?

* the government?

* the reigning monarch?

Legally, it would fall to the Crown, meaning the state — with King Charles III as the current embodiment of that institution.

Not because Charles is King John’s familial heir (though he is), but because the Crown is a continuous legal entity. The monarch doesn’t personally inherit ancient treasure — the office does. Any regalia or valuables recovered would be state property, almost certainly destined for museum display.

In short:

It wouldn’t be Charles’s private treasure — but it would legally fall under the Crown’s ownership today. And the Treasure Act 1996, so finder and landowner should be rewarded.

 If You’re Treasure-Hunting, Make a Deal Before You Dig

All of this leads to a very practical piece of advice:

If you are searching for something that might still have an identifiable owner, agree on a finder’s fee or share before you dig.

Archaeologists, detectorists, and even professional estate clearers do this routinely. A simple agreement can secure:

* a percentage of the value,

* a set finder’s fee,

* or reimbursement for your search effort.

Once an item is out of the ground, the law takes over — and the law is remarkably efficient at transferring treasure away from the person who actually found it.

A pre-dig agreement can’t supersede national treasure laws, but it can protect you in cases involving private ownership, forgotten inheritances, or stashes hidden in homes and gardens.

 Do Western Legal Systems Favour Original Owners? Yes — Strongly.

Across Europe and North America, the principles are consistent:

* Mislaid property remains the owner’s property, no matter how old.

* Finders rarely gain ownership, only custodial rights.

* State treasure laws override finders, not owners, unless no heirs can be found.

* Theft-by-finding is criminally punishable in many jurisdictions.

So is it fair to say that most of the Western world honours original ownership over the rights of the finder?

 Absolutely.

Finder’s rights are secondary, often symbolic, and typically rewarded only when the original owner cannot be traced or the item qualifies as state treasure.

 The Unromantic Truth

Buried treasure captures the imagination. We want it to be a fairy tale: an everyman striking gold by chance.

But modern law is stubbornly unromantic.

It prioritises continuity, property rights, and historical ownership over serendipity.

Which brings us back to the French gardener — a man who did the honest thing and, by doing so, may have saved himself from criminal liability, even as he watched a fortune slip through his fingers.

In the end, perhaps the best rule of treasure hunting is this:

If treasure might belong to someone, talk before you dig — because once it’s found, it almost certainly won’t be yours.

Categories: Finds | Tags: , , , , , ,

Treasure Ship Found in Desert

Categories: Finds | Tags: , ,

TOP TIP #43. Understand Signal Types

Learn the differences between signals from different metals

Understanding the various signals produced by different metals is a crucial skill for any metal detectorist. Each type of metal generates a unique signal or tone, and being able to distinguish these signals can significantly enhance your ability to identify valuable targets and avoid junk. Here’s a detailed look at why it’s important to understand signal types and some tips on how to master this skill.

Why Understanding Signal Types Matters

*Target Identification: Recognizing different signal types helps you identify the nature of the buried object before digging, saving time and effort.

*Efficiency: Differentiating between valuable targets (like coins and jewelry) and junk (like nails and bottle caps) makes your detecting sessions more efficient and productive.

*Accuracy: Understanding signals improves your accuracy in locating and identifying targets, reducing the likelihood of missing valuable finds.

*Equipment Mastery: Knowing how your metal detector responds to various metals helps you fine-tune its settings for optimal performance.

*Preservation: Accurate identification allows for careful excavation, preserving both the target and the surrounding environment.

Tips for Understanding Signal Types

*Read the Manual: Start by thoroughly reading your metal detector’s manual. It will provide valuable information about the different signal tones and what they represent.

—Manufacturer’s Guide: Each detector model has unique signal characteristics. Familiarize yourself with the specific signals your detector produces.

*Practice with Known Targets: Bury various types of metals (e.g., coins, nails, rings) in a test garden and practice detecting them to learn the signals they produce.

—Controlled Testing: Create a test area in your backyard with buried items at different depths. This controlled environment helps you recognize signals in a consistent setting.

*Use Discrimination Settings: Adjust the discrimination settings on your detector to filter out unwanted metals and focus on specific types of signals.

—Custom Settings: Experiment with different discrimination levels to see how your detector responds to various metals.

*Listen to the Tones: Pay close attention to the audio tones your detector emits. Different metals will produce different tones, such as low, medium, or high—pitched sounds.

—Audio Training: Spend time listening to and differentiating between the subtle differences in tones produced by various metals.

*Visual Display: Many modern detectors have visual displays that indicate the type of metal detected. Learn to interpret these visual cues in conjunction with the audio signals.

—Screen Interpretation: Study the icons and numerical readings on your detector’s screen to enhance your understanding of the signals.

*Field Practice: Regular field practice is essential. Detect in various environments and note the signals you receive from different types of finds.

—Real—World Application: Practice in parks, beaches, fields, and historical sites to experience a wide range of signals.

*Keep a Log: Maintain a logbook of your detecting sessions, noting the signals you encountered and the objects you found. This will help you track patterns and improve your skills.

—Detailed Records: Include information about the signal tone, visual display reading, target type, and depth.

*Consult Experienced Detectorists: Join metal detecting clubs or online forums to learn from more experienced hobbyists. They can provide valuable insights into interpreting signals.

—Community Learning: Participate in group hunts and discussions to gain practical knowledge from seasoned detectorists.

*Use Target ID Charts: Some metal detectors come with target ID charts that provide a reference for different signal types. Keep this chart handy while detecting.

—Quick Reference: Use the chart as a quick reference guide to identify signals in the field.

*Experiment with Sensitivity Settings: Adjust your detector’s sensitivity settings to see how it affects signal responses. Higher sensitivity may detect deeper targets but can also increase noise.

—Fine-Tuning: Find a balance in sensitivity that provides clear signals without excessive false positives.

Conclusion

Understanding signal types is a fundamental skill in metal detecting that can greatly improve your efficiency, accuracy, and overall success. By learning to distinguish between the signals produced by different metals, you can identify valuable targets more effectively and reduce the time spent digging up junk. Practice regularly with known targets, use your detector’s discrimination and sensitivity settings wisely, and seek advice from experienced detectorists. With patience and persistence, you’ll become adept at interpreting signals and enhancing your metal detecting adventures.

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